Mom and I clicked off 14 miles today. It was not too bad, except that toward the end we got into some pretty mountainous stuff. I don't mind the hills so much, but when you are dealing with terrain, the trail tends to get rather rocky, and this is hard on your feet. By the time we arrived, I felt like I done 14 miles. I am beginning to think my feet will never get used to the walking.
The walk was very pretty, we are in the mountains that separate The old kingdom of León from that of Galicia. We walked through vineyards again today, with several ruined castles visible here and there in the foothills, and the ruins of old Roman gold mines also visible. The Romans used water to literally sluice away the hillsides to get at the gold, and we have been left, 2000 years later, with somE very interesting rock formations.
The vineyards are mostly of a type of grape known as Mencía, and the story is that a French pilgrim brought with him many years ago a vine of Sauvignon Franc and planted it. Over time the vines adapted to the area and changed and became the Mencía. This seems appropriate, as the town we are staying in is called Villafranca, Village of the Franks. There are several villages named thus along the Camino, and are so named named because French pilgrims on their way to Santiago would decide they likes an area so much that they would simply settle there. See, even the French think Spain is better than France!
The town did not make a good impression on me as we walked in, but after lunch and some rest, we explored a bit more, and I have revised my opinion. The town is built on a hillside, and has a castle/palace, partially ruined, but still inhabited. It also has five or so large churches, and spans both sides of a small river. What's interesting is that many of the houses appear to have been the "town homes" of local nobles, as many of the residences have coats of arms over the doors. I will have to do some research (and post pictures) of this little burg when I have a real Internet connection again. I even saw a Casa Rural with a plaque indicating the remodeling had been funded by the Spanish government and the European Union. I want in on that deal!
Tomorrows hike will be a bit of a challenge. We thought it would be a flat easy day, but upon further inspection we discovered that this route is mainly along a very dangerous stretch of freeway. The alternative is much more picturesque, and safer, mountain path. The price to be paid is that it will also involve a 1500 ft climb and subsequent descent. We have opted to not place our lives in the hands of Spanish drivers (who generally scare even me) and will instead climb yet another mountain.
Dad is doing much better. Of course, if I got to sleep in late then hop on a bus for a 20 minute ride to my next hotel, I would feel pretty great, too. He figured out that his boots, which are the same ones he's trained in for a year, are probably worn out. So, he bought a new pair, and they seem to be a big improvement. He hopes to be able to walk the last 60 miles with so he can still get his certificate.
In all seriousness, I will admit that I am loving this trip. Even though the walking is hard, I am enjoying the effort of it, and the time to think it gives me. I also love being able to relax and rest in the afternoons, and explore places I would not have seen otherwise, talk to the locals, and meet other pilgrims. I am looking forward to getting back home to a real washing machine (washing by hand in the sink or tub is the pits as is having every piece of clothing you own hung up to dry on every available surface in a hotel room) and I can not wait to be able to walk somewhere - anywhere - without a 30lb. Appendage on my back. Nonetheless, this is all part of the unique experience, and I wouldn't change a bit of it.
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