Faster Is Not Always Better

Let me disclaim on the front end and state that I am not the type of Camino Pilgrim who thinks you should get wherever you are going as fast as possible.  On the other hand neither do I believe that one must patronize every potential watering hole along the Way.  I pretty much have one walking speed, about 3.5 miles an hour, and generally want or need to stop every couple of hours.

Yesterday, however, I learned that sometimes you just have to go with it.  Paul and I began our walk out of Ponferrada a bit later than normal as the hotel breakfast didn't start till 730.  One nice thing about walking at the start of the season and having places reserved is that you can be a bit more generous with yourself on the time schedule.  You don't necessarily have to be up at 6 and on the road to beat heat, pilgrims, and to ensure a spot in an albergue.  If a stress-free Camino experience is your thing, I highly recommend it.

At any rate we were both on the struggle bus a bit and stopped after only 3 miles for some coffee and a restroom break.  This helped immensely.  I find that I like the cold weather for walking.  It keeps me more alert and I don't have to worry about overheating.  I do worry about dehydration as you don't seem to feel as thirsty when you're not obviously hot.

Our second stop was some 3 miles later at a winery as we badly needed another break.  To clarify, Paul and I both had Coke and water, but no wine...though at EUR 18 for 15 liters (!) It was tempting.

Whatever they put in the winery water did the trick as we both felt much better by our lunch stop in Cacabelos.  Cacabelos is a town I love to hate because it goes on forever and I got winged by a car there in 2014.  Not my favorite town.  But we found a likely looking lunch spot - and we were not disappointed.  Paul had "one of the best pizzas of my life" and I had a fantastic pilgrim meal of eggs, shrimp, and mushrooms followed by sausage and potatoes and white chocolate cake with caramel frosting for dessert.  And we drank a bottle of wine.  With alarming ease.  Wine is now referred to as Super Concentrated Camino Foot Tonic, as opposed to the merely normal strength Sangria.

The remaining 6 miles to Villafranca went relatively quickly.  We met a Danish couple having foot trouble and Paul gave them his extra roll of tape and I pointed them to their hotel in the Plaza Mayor.  We then ensconced ourselves in our suite in the Parador and did not emerge until dinner, which was in fact up to the usual Parador standards.  I had bacon-wrapped filet.  How could it not be glorious? I also got to introduce Paul to two Spanish delicacies, Serrano Ham served with Honeydew Melon, served as a tapa in this case (it's often a first course in the summer).  He was skeptical, but since I'm always right especially about Spanish things, he tried it, and even commented today on how awesome it was.  I also introduced him to licor de melocotón, an after dinner drink not unlike peach Schnapps, but less obnoxious and more drinkable, because its not German.  He also approved.

All in all a fairly typical, and therefore wonderful,  day on the Camino.