What Goes Up Must Come Down

We laughed a lot today, mostly at each other.  Paul may or may not have laughed at me for using the phrase "that Roman Road crap" to describe an old section of bumpy Roman Road that must be traversed descending from Riego de Ambros to Molinaseca and I may or may not have laughed at him for telling me of his misadventures in France.

We both decided that Paul had enough to drink when he dumped a full glass of Sangria in my lap at dinner.  It was after all his 15th glass.

Today's stage is a tough one.  You climb out of Foncebadon to the Cruz de Ferro, the highest point on the Camino, where its traditional to leave a stone representing something you need to leave behind of yourself.  This we did, and for me at least it was very meaningful.  I'd share with you what I left behind, but those thoughts are for God and myself.

Then you descend, for 12 miles, over often rocky terrain to the medieval town of Molinaseca.  The weather was cold, with some snow and sleet, but surprisingly good walking weather. 

We encountered at several points today a middle-aged French couple who were overly concerned about making sure they were on the right path, so in broken French we assured them they were.  They were sweet people.  Less enjoyable was the still-kind French gentleman we encountered on a rest break in Acebo.  He spoke good English and made all the usual inquiries about where we were from, where we had walked, and was this our first Camino.  He then proceeded to inform me, unprompted, that the pilgrimage route from Paris to St. Jean was "really a much better route than the Spainsh Camino." I smiled in a way I'm sure did not touch my eyes and replied "how interesting." I consider that a win in the self-restraint department.

Nonetheless, after we stumbled into Ponferrada, some 3 miles after Molinaseca, we were beat - 16 hard miles and 2500 feet of descent.  I have two small blisters on my left heel but am otherwise in good shape.

After a brief respite at our hotel (thank you Marriott points), we went to the old part of town as I insisted that Paul tour the Templar Castle while I drank coffee and hot chocolate.  It's an impressive castle, the history of which I've recounted elsewhere.  After dinner, and the afirementioned Sangria-gate, we have returned to our hotel.  Tomorrow is shorter - only 14 miles, with a Parador at the end to welcome us, and weather should not be too much of an issue.  I'm looking forward to a good night's sleep.